The first Royal Oak in white gold: history, luxury, and rarity

When we talk about the Royal Oak, our thoughts immediately turn to the luxury sports watch revolution that began in 1972. But among the most exclusive and lesser-known versions, there is one reference that deserves special mention: the 5402BC, the first Royal Oak ever made in white gold.

A prototype born for a King

The story of this model begins in an almost legendary way. The first white gold prototype was created in 1972, not for just any customer, but for Mohammad Reza Pahlavi, the last Shah of Persia. A watch designed for nobility, with an aura of power and exclusivity.
However, this version did not immediately go into production. It wasn't until 1977 that the reference 5402BC officially entered the Audemars Piguet catalog. 

A Limited and Fascinating Production

The 5402BC was produced in only about 150 units, distributed extremely unevenly between 1977 and 1991.
The first two units date back to 1972 and 1977, followed by more intense production in the following years, particularly in the two-year period 1978–1979.

Estimated distribution by year of sale:

1972 (1), 1977 (1), 1978 (50), 1979 (45), 1980 (37), 1981 (5), 1982 (3), 1983 (2), 1985 (2), 1988 (2),
1989 (1), 1991 (1).

Two series, one legend

The rarity of the 5402BC is not only due to its limited production, but also to its division into two different series, recognizable by aesthetic and technical details.

(Audemars Piguet 5402 BC – MK1)

MK1 – First series (~100 pieces)

• Dial: Tapestry
• Indexes: Round diamonds
• Word “AP”: high
• 6 o'clock inscription: “SWISS”
• Special feature: Sequentially numbered on the case back

MK2 – Second series (~50 pieces)

• Dial: Tapestry
• Indexes: Square
• “AP” inscription: high
• 6 o'clock inscription: “SWISS”
• Special feature: Also numbered on the back

(Audemars Piguet 5402 BC – MK2)

A Royal Oak out of time

Unlike the steel versions, the 5402BC has always had a more discreet and mysterious aura. Very few collectors own one, and seeing it appear at auction is an extremely rare occurrence.
“BC” stands for "blancor," meaning white gold, a term that today seems almost technical, but at the time marked a turning point in the Maison's history: taking the sporty design of the Royal Oak to a more noble and precious dimension.

A museum piece

With just 150 known examples and a history that unites sovereigns, elegance, and technology, the Royal Oak 5402BC remains one of the most fascinating chapters in the saga of fine watchmaking.
A watch that is not just an accessory, but a fragment of history engraved in white gold.