NOT JUST MADE IN SWISS

NOT ONLY MADE IN SWISS

Today, we know Rolex as a fully integrated manufacturer that produces everything "in-house." However, until the late 1990s and early 2000s, Rolex collaborated with various external suppliers for different components of its watches, before acquiring them and consolidating production under its own control. A significant example is the acquisition of the company Gay Frères.

External Collaborations Pre-1990

Before the 1990s, Rolex relied on external expertise for many parts of its watches. For example, many of the early Oyster cases were marked Charles Rodolphe Spillmann SA (C.R.S), and for Daytona chronographs, Rolex used Valjoux movements (until around 1988) and Zenith.

Daytona Gold Case Back marked C.R.S, code 136

Daytona Case Back marked C.R.S

This strategy was driven by tax reasons, particularly to reduce import duties. As a result, Rolex produced bracelets in various countries:

• United States: Between roughly 1958 and 1978, Rolex also produced its riveted Oyster bracelets in the United States. These were stamped C&I (the US-based company) and mainly used for GMT Master, Explorer, and Submariner watches. A second US-based supplier was JB Champion.

USA - C&I

USA - JB Champion

Japan

• JDM: Potentially one of the rarest of these unusual bracelets comes from Japan. Simply marked "Made in Japan", it is said that a single individual made these JDM President bracelets, mainly between the late 1960s and early 1980s.

Japan - Made in Japan

• Venezuela: The manufacturer D'Agosto, active in the 1960s and 1970s, is famous for bracelets stamped with "D'A" inside the clasp. They are said to have also supplied bracelets to Argentina and Brazil.

Venezuela - D’AGOSTO

• United Kingdom: Jubilee bracelets made in the UK during the 1950s and 1960s are identified with the WAB signature for "Watch Accessories Birmingham," a company owned by Rolex’s UK importer and possibly a friend of Hans, Mr. Oscar Winter. Other suppliers were ClewCo and Britton & Sons (B&S).

England – WAB

• Mexico: The "Hecho en Mexico" bracelets were produced by a company called Joske’s, a popular department store in Texas (USA) and Mexico between 1867 and 1987. They were also an authorized Rolex retailer.

Between the late 1960s and 1980s, the Mexican government approved a law requiring industrial integration, meaning that at least some parts of products sold in Mexico had to be manufactured locally. Therefore, for Rolex to sell watches in that market, it needed to produce its bracelets in Mexico.

Mexico - HECHO EN MEXICO

MJ = Mexico Joske’s (ph.tropicalwatch.com)

Unique and Collectible

The bracelets produced in these countries offer a wide variety of styles and are considered collectible due to their distinctive characteristics. For example, bracelets produced in Mexico by Joske’s are distinguished by the oval shape of the outer links and the unique position of the logo on the clasp. These bracelets are a testament to the diversity of Rolex production before full integration and represent fascinating pieces for collectors around the world.