Dial Cloisonné, Grand Feu, Champlevé enamels

The art of enameling, or enamelling, is an ancient technique dating back approximately 4,000 years, created by Eastern artisans. This process involves the use of a soft glass composed of silica, red lead, and soda, which, when mixed and heated with iron, chromium, or other elements, produces intense colors. The resulting enamel is applied to watch dials with extreme precision, using a quill pen, in a meticulous and delicate process.

Enamelling Techniques

• Grand Feu Translated as "Great Fire," this technique begins with coating copper plates in layers of oxides. The dials are then heated in a kiln at 800–900℃ to bond the enamel to the disc. The process is repeated until layers of enamel are created, providing the desired thickness and finish.
• Cloisonné "Cloison" is French for compartment. This technique involves creating segments delineated by strands as thin as human hair, which are soldered or adhered to the edges of the design. The compartments are then filled with enamel or inlays and fired in a kiln. The result is a refined piece with details of depth and dimension.
• Champlevé Similar to cloisonné, the champlevé method achieves its effect by carving a metal dial to create segments. These spaces are filled with enamel, fired to the point of fusion, cooled, and polished. The resulting effect is raised fields, with the uncut portion framing the enameled design.

(ph. e-monde-edmond.com)

(ph. phillips.com)

The Use of Enamels in Watches

These enameling techniques have been prominently adopted by haute horlogerie houses such as Vacheron Constantin, Hermès, Chaumet, Voutilainen, Jaquet Droz, Patek Philippe, and Chopard, to create masterpieces of Haute Horlogerie.

(ph: bachmann-scher.de)

Rolex and Enameling

Unfortunately, Rolex has not had great success with the enameling technique. The most iconic Rolexes with dials similar to the enameled ones are the famous "Stella."