In 1926, the Oyster case was born—the first hermetically sealed and virtually indestructible case in watchmaking history. Twenty years later, Hans Wilsdorf stated that the future belonged to this invention, and time proved him right: that insight did not simply give a collection its name; it rewrote the rules of modern watchmaking.
Today, a century later, the brand celebrates this anniversary at Watches & Wonders 2026 with a collection that combines historical heritage with contemporary boldness, bringing the legendary Rolex Oyster Perpetual back to centre stage. Collectors had been increasingly anticipating a technical redesign of the most iconic sports models, but the Maison chose to move with surgical precision, confirming the definitive retirement of the GMT-Master II "Pepsi"—a farewell that is set to shake the secondary market and turn the spotlight toward the evolution of the Rolex Oyster Perpetual line.
In the 28 and 34 mm versions, the Oyster Perpetual explores understated, tactile luxury. The real innovation is the satin finish applied to the 18-karat gold, available in yellow gold or Everose gold, which softens reflections and creates a more architectural elegance.
The natural-stone dials, Green Stone for the 28 mm and Blue Stone for the 34 mm, are enhanced with heliotrope and dumortierite hour markers at 3, 6 and 9 o'clock, combined with the glow of Chromalight. It is a return to mineral richness that gives each watch a unique, organic texture.
The "President" evolves through a new metallurgical frontier: Jubilee Gold, a proprietary alloy with a more ethereal and iridescent tone than traditional rose gold, capable of reacting to light with soft reflections.
The light-green aventurine dial adds a starry depth, creating a harmonious contrast with the classic fluted bezel. Powered by calibre 3255, this model represents the pinnacle of Rolex's technical vertical integration. However, this is already a discontinued reference, designed for a select few and ideal for those seeking a form of luxury that stands out through discretion.
The Datejust, a longstanding reference among rolex oyster perpetual datejust models, embraces a dramatic touch with new green ombré dials. The production technique is sophisticated: a green lacquer base gradually fades toward black through peripheral spraying, creating a gradient that enhances the symmetry of the case.
The optical-white lettering "cuts" across the dial, ensuring excellent legibility. Available in 36 and 41 mm, it remains the perfect balance between steel sportiness and formal elegance, confirming the central role of the rolex datejust oyster perpetual in the brand's catalogue.
Without a doubt, this is the most controversial and divisive release of 2026: the new Daytona in Rolesium marks the return of a legendary aesthetic, already nicknamed "Albino" by collectors.
This unprecedented configuration combines the robustness of Oystersteel with the prestige of platinum, used for the tachymetric bezel, creating a monochromatic play of light with rare elegance. The optical-white dial, icy and free from the usual contrast on the sub-dials, focuses on absolute purity, interrupted only by the famous red Daytona logo.
The real innovation lies here: this is not the traditional white lacquer, but a Grand Feu treatment, an extremely high-temperature process capable of creating an almost glass-like surface that reflects light in a completely different way from traditional Daytonas.
Inside beats calibre 4131, a masterpiece of engineering with outstanding chronometric performance. It is a piece destined to immediately become a cult object—a Daytona that does not seek the model's traditional contrast, but instead combines its racing spirit with an almost ethereal perspective, achieving a visual balance that few vintage references have managed to reach.
The 2026 Rolex collection outlines a strategy based on evolutionary continuity, pursuing perfection in detail rather than technological shock. At the centre of the stage remains the celebration of the Oyster centenary, a choice that honours the brand's roots while maintaining a deliberately conservative approach.
In this context, the new Oyster Perpetual "100 Years" is not merely a tribute but also a carefully positioned commercial move: it establishes itself as the most accessible Rolesor model in the entire portfolio, opening the doors of elite collecting to a new audience.
The real news shaking the industry, however, concerns not what has arrived, but what is disappearing. The definitive farewell to the GMT-Master II "Pepsi", retired in both its steel and white-gold versions, marks a historic break. For the first time in decades, the Crown's sports catalogue is left without the legendary red-and-blue bezel—a chromatic void that suggests strategic anticipation.
Rolex has introduced no replacements, leaving collectors in a state of speculation and desire. This absence is not a retreat but a positioning move: by clearing the field of its most prominent icons, the Maison appears to be preparing the ground for something even more disruptive.
Watches & Wonders 2026 therefore closes with a typically Rolex paradox: a tribute to the century just passed that, through calculated silence, leaves the entire watchmaking world waiting with bated breath for what comes next. A classic that, once again, sets the rules of the game.
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